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Angela
Hartnett, chef
Angela Hartnett, 42, is Chef Patron
at fine-dining Italian restaurant
Murano and the York & Albany
gastro pub in London. She lives in
east London with her dog, Alfie
I’ve been a chef for 20 years and it’s
still something I’m 100% passionate
about. When I first started out in
cooking I didn’t have any designs on
grandeur or gaining accolades, but
winning my first Michelin star at The
Connaught in 2004 was an incredible
feeling. And once you get a Michelin
star you never want to lose it.
I wake up about 8.30am, have a
strong cup of black coffee and throw
on some jeans. I don’t eat breakfast
because I’m eating constantly the
minute I walk in the restaurant door.
I’m very low-maintenance – no
make-up, hair back, ready for a 12-hour
day. The one thing I make sure I do
is moisturise my face. Crème De La
Mer is worth every penny!
I have to split my time equally
between the two restaurants.
Sometimes I can spend the whole
day working in the kitchens at
York & Albany, and other days I flit
across London, working in Murano for
6
ANGELA ADMIRES OUR LAW
ENFORCERS, AS PORTRAYED
BY THE BILL’S SGT JO MASTERS
lunch and then head on over to the
York & Albany for dinner service.
I get to the restaurant at about 9am,
say good morning to the staff and have
a chat to the managers. Just as Gordon
[Ramsay] learnt to put his faith in me,
I have learnt to trust and work closely
with my head chefs. It’s my name over
the door so I have to be sure that
when I’m not there everything that
goes out is perfect. Gordon told me
a long time ago that you’re only as
good as your last meal.
AFTER TWO DECADES
IN THE KITCHEN, ANGELA
HARTNETT IS NOW ONE OF
THE UK’S PREMIER CHEFS
We spend the morning preparing for
lunch service. I oversee every part of
the restaurants, from the mise en place
(all the chopping, washing and
marinating of food) to ordering, the
accounts and bookings. We have a staff
lunch around midday, just some pasta
“I have to make sure that
everything that goes out
is perfect. ◊ou’re only as
good as your last meal”
MY�PLAN�B��POLICE�OFFICER
or steak and salad, and then kick-off
service at 1pm. I run the pass – the final
stage of the kitchen – making sure
orders go out spot on.
I have a two-hour break at 3pm
and start work again about 5pm, either
preparing for dinner service or working
out recipes for my kitchen or for
events like Taste Of London. Part of
my brain is always thinking about new
recipes. I start with seasonality
(asparagus and strawberries are in
season now), then brainstorm, then
I test them. I know instantly when it’s
right. For Taste, designing the dishes is
the hardest part. Your food has to sell
your restaurant to the public in one or
two dishes. We’re doing a marinated
lamb chop with slow-cooked tomatoes.
Dinner service begins again at 7pm.
I’ll have adjusted the menu according
to what we’ve sold at lunch, spoken to
my suppliers and called in anything
we’re short of and checked the
booking list for that evening. When
you’re in control of a kitchen, being
authoritative without shouting is hard.
Marcus [Wareing] and Gordon have
taught me everything I need to know.
I shoot off around 10.30pm once the
last main course has left the pass. I’m
still buzzing when I leave the kitchen so
it takes me a while to relax. I don’t
need dinner, just a glass of red wine
and a quick glance at the Guardian.
I’m single at the moment and to be
honest my job doesn’t exactly allow for
much of a love life, but I’m still looking.
I’m sure it will just happen but I
wouldn’t say I’m out there searching
for him. I’ve got a great social life
though, even though I work five days
a week and as many nights. I’m usually
eating or cooking at home for friends.
Risotto is my dinner party dish; one
pot, no fuss. My local is St John’s Bread
and Wine so I’m there a lot.
I work hard, the hours are long and
there’s a lot of pressure but I’m my own
boss and I love that flexibility. I write
my own rota and if that means working
all weekend or five nights in a row, I’d
prefer it to the nine-to-five any day.
Angela will be appearing at the Taste
Of London restaurant festival at Regent’s
Park, London; 17-20 June. See tastefestivals.
com/london for tickets
I’ve always been fascinated by the police force. I love the idea of investigating and picking up clues and being
part of a community. I’ve lived in London most of my life and have nothing but respect and admiration for the
policewomen (and men) I see out on the street. It’s not an easy job. I also think the skills I’ve developed as
a chef would transfer to a career in the police. I’ve got a slightly bossy side (shock horror!) and could handle
being in charge and shouting commands. Plus, I do love a man in uniform! The police force is similar to the
restaurant world in that the higher up you get, the fewer women there are. It’s a shame but it’s true. I’m used to
being a woman in a man’s world so I can’t see that bothering me. Not sure I could pull off the hat though…
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