GOLDEN GIRLS
we’re talking about
ugly open-pit mines
in vulnerable lands. Most of
the gold left to mine exists as
traces buried in remote and
fragile corners of the globe.
But activist groups like No
Dirty Gold and Earthworks
are calling on the mining
industry, and the jewellery
trade, to provide alternatives
to irresponsibly mined gold,
which is too often produced
at the expense of communities,
workers and the environment.
Designer Jamie Joseph, who
counts Cameron Diaz and
Naomi Watts among her fans,
says: “I saw a documentary
about mining years ago, and
I was really disturbed to learn
that the average gold wedding
band leaves behind 20 tonnes
of mining waste. But jewellery
was my passion, so I started
investigating. And there were
vendors that I found where
I could buy all-recycled gold.
I’ve been using reclaimed gold
ever since.”
Today, if gold is hot,
‘eco-gold’ is even hotter, with
Cartier and Tiffany & Co among
the big names working with
reclaimed metal. “It’s our duty
to provide our clients with
creations that are beautiful,
desirable and responsibly
made, be it ethically, socially
or environmentally,” says
Pamela Caillens, the corporate
‘ECO GOLD’ IS
HOT, WITH BIG
NAMES LIKE
CARTIER
USING
RECLAIMED
METAL
responsibility director at
Cartier. “As times change, so
do society’s expectations.”
However shrewd an
investment it might be, it’s the
nature of the investment that
appeals most. Gold is an
investment you can wear and
enjoy – you can’t wear an ISA,
after all. And the thought of
passing on a stunning designer
cuff to our granddaughters fills
us with a glow we wouldn’t get
from writing her a cheque. The
fact is, gold’s value has never
been purely monetary, it’s an
investment you can enjoy
every single day.
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There are two approaches to
buying your bling. If you’re purely
after an investment, your best bet
is gold bullion, ie, investment-grade
gold in coin or bar form. If you’re
purchasing gold for personal
enjoyment with a bit of investment
potential, you’re looking at
jewellery or collectible gold coins.
GOLD�BULLION
By economist Kent Ninomiya
“The first step is to decide what
kind of gold bullion you want.
One-ounce gold coins, issued from
government mints around the world,
are the easiest to buy and sell,
since every coin and bullion dealer
uses them. The most popular – and
therefore most easily traded –
include the American Eagle, the
South African Krugerrand and the
Austrian Philharmonic.
Only buy gold bullion coins that
are in ‘gem uncirculated’ condition.
These should come in a protective
covering and should have no
fingerprints or scratches. Never
touch a gold bullion coin with your
bare hands or attempt to clean a
coin – this will reduce its value.
HOW
TO BUY
GOLD
Without getting ripped off...
Finally, get online before you buy.
The price of gold changes daily, so
check it at kitco.com.”
COLLECTIBLE�GOLD
By gemologist David Foard
“Most gold jewellery has a low
resell value. The trick is to invest
in the small percentage of
jewellery that becomes collectible,
escapes the melting process and
increases in value. So how do
you spot a future classic?
First of all, if something
is common it will never be
collectible, so buy limited-edition
or one-off pieces that are signed
by the designer. Secondly, the
value of a piece depends on its
style enduring. Vintage hat pins,
for example, should be valuable,
“Buy limited-edition or one-off pieces
that are signed by the designer”
because they’re made of precious
metals and stamped and dated.
But nobody wears hat pins now,
so they’re not collectable and
therefore a bit of an antique
hard-luck story. Finally, buy what
you personally like. Get the very
best examples of it, in the very
best quality, and hopefully, wear
it and enjoy it.”
RAID YOUR
JEWELLERY BOX
According to a recent survey, British
women are sitting on more than £26bn
worth of unused jewellery. Here’s what
to look for in your own stash
X Do some homework so you can tell
your Art Deco from your Art Nouveau.
Jewellery that is exemplary of a
particular period will always be popular.
X Look into what’s hot right now:
Chanel costume jewellery from the
Thirties and pieces from the Sixties
made by Dior, Lanvin and Yves Saint
Laurent are all big sellers. (Lanvin
pendants are fetching £150 on eBay.)
SWAP A WERTHER’S ORIGINAL FOR
GRAN’S VINTAGE CHANEL AND
YOU’LL BE QUIDS IN
X Look for signs of quality such as
pronged settings, substantial weight,
smooth plating and sparkling stones.
X Older doesn’t necessarily mean
more valuable. Vintage jewellery
(30-100 years old) can be much more
wearable and collectible than antique
jewellery (more than 100 years old.)
X Don’t disregard costume jewellery.
Miriam Haskell, Marcel Boucher, Elsa
Schiaparelli, Dior, Nettie Rosenstein
and Givenchy are all collectible names.
X Condition matters. A chipped or
scratched item is worth a fraction of
what it would be in mint condition.
X Ask for a back story. Get your
Grandmother to tell you where she
acquired her jewellery, as this will
give an indication of their worth.
Clue: if she mentions that Coco
Chanel gave her that pendant as a
thank-you for saving her life, it’s time
to ‘borrow’ her jewellery box.
WORDS��ANNA�HART���PHOTOGRAPHY��RICHARD�BURBRIDGE/ART���COMMERCE���GETTY�IMAGES��ADVERTISING�ARCHIVES
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